7 Tips for Great Hair Color

Coloring your hair can give a 3-D effect that makes your hair look fuller, playing with the depth of the tone and the contrast. Here are tips for getting great hair color from Best in Beauty: An Ultimate Guide to Make Up and Skincare Techniques, Tools, and Products by Riku Campo.

How important is the collaboration between the hairstylist and the colorist?
The chemistry and vision of the two must be complementary for the best effect. The cut creates shape and movement; color provides dimension.

What is the difference between semipermanent color and permanent color?
The difference is the size of the color molecule and how it enters the hair shaft. Semipermanent color molecules are larger in size than permanent and usually need heat to open the hair in order to allow the molecule to enter because there is no ammonia release from a developer.

How do I know which hair color will suit me?

Hair color is picked for many different reasons. The number one reason is to cover gray hair. There is actually no such thing as gray hair. Individual hairs are white, not gray; it’s the background that makes them appear gray.

Colorists call this the client’s base color. The base color is picked to suit the skin color and age of the client. For dimension on a base color, colorists do lowlights and highlights, usually in the same tonal family as the base color, for natural highs and lows that will give dimension to the color.

Why is it so important to use color shampoo and conditioner instead of regular ones?
Some shampoos and conditioners are specifically made for color-treated hair. They are formulated with gentler detergents that are more moisturizing, and they usually contain a sunscreen. Some shampoos and conditioners for color-treated hair include small amounts of color. This helps maintain the color for longer periods of time, especially for people who spend a lot of time in the sun.

How often should I see my colorist?

I recommend every four to six weeks for a touch-up. That’s about how long it takes the original color to show through. Roots that have grown out for four to six weeks are usually around 1/2 inch long. Highlight and lowlight touch-ups, if done right, can last as long as three or four months.

Can salt water and sun damage highlighted hair?

Highlights are usually put in by a discoloration process using either bleach or a high lift color, and we also carefully place tone into the highlights to balance the highlights with the base color. Without sunscreen protection, the sun will further bleach the hair and lift out the tone the colorist created. Salt water has a drying effect over time if the hair is not well washed and conditioned. Dry hair makes your color look faded and old.

Why doesn’t red color stay in hair well?
Red is the hardest color to lift out of the hair, and the hardest color to keep. The reason is the weight of the color molecule: the darker the color, the heavier the weight of the color molecule. Dark brown fades as well, but the weight of the color molecule is heavier, and thus it fades more slowly. Reds are lighter and thus fade quickly; blonde is the lightest and fades just as fast, but it doesn’t have the same intensity as red so it’s not as noticeable. When red is freshly done, it’s the most intense color. Reds are my personal favorites and the colors I enjoy doing the most.

The way to keep your red color longer is to get frequent touch-ups and use a shampoo and conditioner for color-treated hair. Stay out of direct sun, and every once in a while get a color glaze. Color glazes are translucent colors that help seal color in and condition the hair. I love the shine and depth of color they bring to the hair.

Riku Campo, author of Best in Beauty: An Ultimate Guide to Make Up and Skincare Techniques, Tools, and Products, lives in Los Angeles, where he has established himself as the makeup go-to guy for some of today’s most celebrated models and entertainers. For more information visit www.rikucampo.com.



How to Frost a Cake

Spreading icing on a cake takes practice. This technique from Shirley Corriher, author of BakeWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking with Over 200 Magnificent Recipes, allows inexperienced cooks to produce a magnificent cake with a perfect, satin-smooth icing that looks as if it came from an expensive bakery.

Double-Icing Technique

1.    Place the cooled cake on a cardboard circle that is slightly smaller than the cake. This allows you to hold the cake with the sturdy cardboard bottom and tilt it as necessary. Next, place the cake on a cooling rack that is sitting on a large piece of parchment paper or a nonstick baking sheet. You want something that catches icing drips and allows you to scrape them up if you need to.

2.    Pour slightly less than half of the ganache or glaze into a 2-cup (473-ml) glass measuring cup with a spout. You want the glaze almost cool enough to set, about 90°F/32°C. Pour a puddle of icing in the center of the cake and continue pouring until the icing starts to overflow and run down the edges. Lift the cake and tilt to encourage the glaze to run where there isn’t any. With a metal spatula, smooth the icing around the edge. Do what you can to cover the top and all around the edges. Allow the cake to cool for about 30 minutes.

3.    No spatula from here on! Heat the remaining half of the ganache or glaze just until it flows easily. So that it will be perfectly smooth, strain it into a warm 2-cup (473-ml) glass measuring cup with a spout. If you are right-handed, hold the cake with your left hand, keeping it over the parchment. With your right hand, pour the glaze into the center of the cake. Allow the glaze to run down the edges and tilt to get it to run where it is needed. Pour more glaze on as needed, but to NOT touch with a spatula. You want this coating untouched, as smooth as a lake at dawn — a perfect, shiny, dark surface. Place the cake on the cooling rack and allow to cool.

Shirley O. Corriher, author of BakeWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking with Over 200 Magnificent Recipes (Copyright © 2008 by Confident Cooking, Inc.), has a B.A. in chemistry from Vanderbilt University, where she was also a biochemist at the medical school. She has problem-solved for everyone from Julia Child to Procter & Gamble and Pillsbury. She has taught and lectured throughout the world. She has long been a writer– authoring a regular syndicated column in The Los Angeles Times Syndicate’s Great Chefs series as well as technical articles in the Journal of Biological Chemistry. Her first book, Cookwise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Cooking is a bestseller and won a James Beard Award for excellence. Shirley has received many awards, including the Best Cooking Teacher of the Year in Bon Appetit’s “Best of the Best” Annual Food and Entertaining Awards in 2001. She lives in Atlanta with her husband, Arch.



9 Secrets to Organizing Your Accessories

Find the perfect pin, pocketbook and pearl ring in a snap. Judie Taggart and Jackie Walker, authors of I Don’t Have a Thing to Wear, share nine tips on how to organize and store all of your accessories.

Accessories should be in plain view. If you don’t see them, you forget what you own. Put shoes in clear plastic boxes on a shelf or stacked on the floor, arrange them on racks, in rows, or stowed in their original boxes with descriptive labels or a Polaroid picture glued on the end.

Arrange handbags vertically on your closet shelf, in view and in your consciousness. Buy cabinet storage organizers that you can stack on a shelf as a way to double space. Consider adding another shelf in your closet above the existing one.

Hang belts on circle rings or retractable horizontal belt racks with hooks. Similar racks may be utilized for long necklaces. It keeps them from getting tangled in your jewelry box. Just remember not to put belt and jewelry racks next to each other.

During your closet overhaul, make choices about where and how you want to store specific items. We advise placing tees, swimsuits, and exercise clothes in drawers. Sort items according to drawer size. One client with a nine-drawer lingerie chest sorts by athletic socks, trouser socks and panty hose, slips, bras, panties, tees, exercise bras, shorts and swimsuits, sweat suits, and knit pants. Sleepwear goes into the drawers in her bedside table.

Get your scarf collection out of a drawer. Maggie, a talented do-it-yourselfer, ties scarves around a vertical spring curtain rod placed at one end of her closet, from ceiling to floor. Evelyn, a superefficient manager, keeps favorite scarves looped around the blouses, jackets, or dresses she usually wears them with. Amy, an accessory collector, folds scarves and stacks them with her gloves and sunglasses in one of the hanging, windowed shoe-storage gizmos.

Laura, a pharmaceutical sales manager, fastened a grid on her swing-out closet door with a towel bar beneath it. Scarves go on the bar while necklaces hang from the grid alongside a long, three-inch-wide taffeta ribbon studded with her favorite blazer pins.

Jewelry storage is a challenge. Traditional multilevel jewelry boxes are never large enough and refuse to stay organized. We favor the convenience of larger shallow drawers with depths of two to three inches. Bedroom bureaus today often come with flat, velvet-lined drawers across the top, or you can create your own. A top drawer in a bedside table may work, or you could stack clear plastic trays with dividers. Plastic ice cube trays can double as containers for storing earrings or rings. Dividers protect your jewelry from scratching or damage.

Jewelry seems to have invisible tentacles attached to each woman’s inner psyche. Admit it — you keep the oddest things in your jewelry boxes: foreign coins, unstrung pearls, odd stones, single earrings, garish bangle bracelets, wrong-size rings, watches with dead batteries, and hopelessly out-of-date earrings. Like your closet, this assortment is a microcosm of your life. On another day after you’ve cleaned out your closet, attack your jewelry collection. Once again, establish a nostalgia box (gifts from old boyfriends or inherited cameos, etc.), consignment items, broken pieces and dead watches, and a box of valuable items you don’t wear often. The latter you take to a safety deposit box.

Judie Taggart is a fashion professional who has written for Women’s Wear Daily, W, Cosmopolitan, and other national publications. Jackie Walker appears as the “Dr. of Closetology” on Fox TV’s Good Day Tampa Bay. Judie and Jackie have been in the fashion business for more than twenty years, and they lecture together nationally. They are the authors of I Don’t Have a Thing to Wear: The Psychology of Your Closet (Copyright © 2003 by Judie Taggart and Jackie Walker).


Moody Hues: Use Color to Set the Right Tone in Your Home

Color is much more than a design statement: The hues you use in your home have the power to evoke very specific moods, like harmony, creativity, stability, purity, power and more. Learn how to make the right mood-hue connection in your home decor with these tips from Kathleen Cox, author of The Power of Vastu Living.

By reading Hindu mythology, we see that Vedic scholars understood that the sun’s energy created the seven colors in the visible spectrum. In many legends, Lord Surya, the sun god, is portrayed as a charioteer on a chariot that is pulled by seven steeds. Each steed represents a single ray of color in the visible spectrum. The ancient scholars also understood that color has a deep influence on our well-being. The physical associations, along with the emotional and spiritual properties attached to each color, are commonly used to symbolize characteristics ascribed to Hindu deities and aspects of Hindu rituals.

Lord Vishnu, the Hindu deity of preservation, is the color blue. Blue, which is the color of the sky and the oceans, represents the heights and the depths of our physical world. In the metaphysical and spiritual realm, blue represents the infinite, the unending, and the everlasting. Emotionally, blue is cool, calm, reflective.

Yellow became the Vedic color connected to the knowledge of the Truth. Many Hindu deities, such as Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headed god, and Lord Krishna, wear garments that include the color yellow. In the physical world, yellow is equated with the sun, which is the source of all light. In the metaphysical and spiritual world, the light of the sun represents knowledge. The sun’s light banishes the darkness that accompanies ignorance. The sun ultimately speaks of clarity and understanding.

White, which contains all seven colors, also contains all their characteristics and speaks of purity. Consider the sacred nature of the ash in Hinduism, which is often smeared on the forehead as a blessing from the priest at a Hindu temple or at the conclusion of a holy ritual. This blessing is rich with meaning. The fire flickers red, yellow, orange, blue, green—all seven colors dance in the flames. When the fire dies, it goes black and gives up its color. But the fire’s residue is the white ash, which encompasses, once again, the seven colors of the sun’s visible spectrum. So white and the blessing of ash symbolize the everlasting nature of the soul—its purity and its never-ending connection to the divine.


In Hinduism, red is auspicious and represents the spiritual power that overcomes evil. Red motivates us, increases our vitality, and makes us passionate. It gives us power and courage that strengthens our conviction, confidence, and strong will. Red reinforces loyalty.

In Hinduism, orange or saffron represents the sacred fire that burns away impurities and signifies the quest for spiritual enlightenment. Swamis and others who choose a spiritual life commonly wear this color. Orange increases our sensitivity, generosity, and compassion. It builds up our energy and our zest for life.

In Hinduism, yellow represents the spiritual light that illuminates the Truth. Yellow stimulates our mind and intellect so that we acquire wisdom and clarity, which increases our inner strength and self-esteem. Yellow also increases our creativity and curiosity.


In Hinduism, rituals include green leaves from sacred plants to express the importance of nature. Green creates harmony, balance, and feelings of inner calm. Identified with nature, green has healing properties, which are therapeutic and stimulate our growth. Green is associated with renewal.

In Hinduism, blue represents the imperishable nature of the soul and the infinite presence of the Supreme Creative Force. Blue represents the cool side of nature, which we associate with the water and the sky. It inspires harmony, serenity, and calms down our emotions. It quiets our mind so that we can think clearly. It promotes integrity, trust, and faith.

In Hinduism, indigo is frequently used in mandalas, which are visual aids to meditation. Indigo strengthens our intuition and imagination. It helps us turn inward so that we can understand the true nature of our soul and our connection to all existence. Indigo creates an inner balance that is stabilizing and reinforcing.


In Hinduism, violet is also commonly used in mandalas. Violet inspires self-respect and enhances our creativity and inspiration. More spiritually potent than indigo, violet intensifies the experience of meditation. It provides us with inner strength and the wisdom to be mindful of our thoughts and actions. It guides us along the path to Enlightenment.

In Hinduism, white represents purity and the nobility that comes with pure thoughts and pure actions. White, which contains all the seven colors, brings us peace and comfort. It purifies the body, the mind, the soul.

Kathleen Cox, author of The Power of Vastu Living: Welcoming Your Soul into Your Home and Workplace (Copyright © 2002 by Kathleen Cox), studied Vedic philosophy in India for ten years . She is the founder of Vastu Living and vastuliving.com and is also the author of Vastu Living: Creating a Home for Your Soul.


5 Cleaning Products You Should Never Be Without

Make your home sparkle by turning five everyday items into powerful homemade, all-natural cleaning products. From Linda Cobb, author of Talking Dirty With the Queen of Clean


Use white vinegar to remove heavy soap scum and mineral deposits from showers, tubs, and sinks. Warm the vinegar and put in a spray bottle. Spray on showers, tubs, and sinks and let soak for 10–15 minutes. Then use a nylon scrubbing sponge to remove scum. Re-spray if necessary. To remove mineral deposits from around drains, close drain and pour in enough white vinegar to cover the drain area. Let soak overnight, scrub with a nylon scrubbing sponge, drain vinegar, and rinse.

To remove scum and mineral buildup from showerheads and keep them free-flowing, put undiluted white vinegar in a plastic bag. Tie around the showerhead overnight. Scrub head and poke any loosened mineral deposits with a toothpick, rinse, and enjoy your next shower.

To remove soap scum and mildew from plastic shower curtains and liners, fill the washing machine with warm water, 1 cup of white vinegar, and your regular laundry detergent. Add the curtains, along with several old, light-colored towels. Run through complete cycle and re-hang curtains immediately.

Add 2–3 tablespoons white vinegar to hot water along with your regular dishwashing liquid to cut grease on dishes and crystal.

Add 1/4 cup of white vinegar to the washing machine during the final rinse to soften clothes and remove lint from dark clothes.

Apply, undiluted, to the skin with a cotton ball to deter bugs — they hate the way you taste, but the odor disappears immediately from your skin.

Neutralize pet urine odor with diluted white vinegar (25 percent vinegar to 75 percent water) sprayed on carpets. Always test in an inconspicuous spot before treating a large area.

Clean stainless steel sinks with a paste of baking soda and vinegar. Don’t let the foaming scare you — it works great!

Make a window cleaner in a spray bottle with 1/4 cup white vinegar added to 1 quart of water.

Make air freshener in a spray bottle with 1 teaspoon of baking soda, 1 tablespoon of white vinegar, and 2 cups of water. After the foaming stops, put on lid. Shake before using.

Clean vinyl floors with 1/2 cup white vinegar to 1 gallon of warm water.

Keep drains free-flowing with 1/2 cup baking soda and 1/2 cup white vinegar poured down the drain monthly. After pouring in baking soda and vinegar, cover the drain for 15 minutes (it will foam). Then flush with cold water.

Clean mirrors with a solution of half vinegar and half water. Wet a sponge, soft cloth, or paper towel, wash, then buff dry. Never spray water onto a mirror. Moisture that gets into the edges and behind mirrors ruins the silvering on the mirror, resulting in dark spots.

Spray vinegar on the underarms of clothes and let soak 15–30 minutes to deodorize and minimize underarm stains.

Make an excellent toilet cleaner with 1 cup borax and 1 cup vinegar. Pour the vinegar over the stained area of the toilet, then sprinkle the borax over the vinegar. Soak for 2 hours and then brush and flush.


Baking soda is a great deodorizer, cleaner, and mild abrasive use as you would a soft-scrubbing product or cleanser in tubs and sinks.

Keep food disposals fresh and free-flowing by putting the stopper in the disposal and adding 3 inches of warm water and a handful of baking soda. Turn on the disposal and let water run out.

Remove perspiration stains and odor from clothing by applying a paste of baking soda and water and letting it soak 30 minutes prior to laundering.

Mix 1 gallon of warm water and 1/4 cup of baking soda. Soak freshly washed socks in this for 30 minutes. Spin out in the washer (do not rinse out the solution), dry, and you will have odor-eater socks.

Clean smudges on wallpaper with baking soda and water.

Remove crayon from hard surfaces with baking soda on a damp rag.

Use on any hard surface as a mild abrasive to remove stains.

Use as a bug killer for aphids. Use  1 1/2 teaspoons of baking soda per pint of water and apply every 7 days.

To clean grout (any color), mix 3 cups of baking soda with 1 cup of warm water. Scrub grout with a brush and rinse.

Use baking soda on a damp cloth to polish silver.

To remove burned food in casseroles, fill dish with hot water and add 1 tablespoon of baking soda and allow to soak.

To clean up pet vomit, sprinkle on a heavy coating of baking soda. Let it absorb moisture and dry, then scoop or vacuum up. The baking soda will neutralize acids and help prevent stains. Follow with your favorite carpet spotter.

Remove heel marks from hard floors with a damp cloth and baking soda.

Clean screen stain and mineral deposits off windows by dipping a soft, wet cloth in baking soda and rubbing gently. Follow by washing windows as usual.

Remove streaks and greasy film from car windshields with a thin paste of baking soda and water. Rinse well.

Put in the bottom of cat litter boxes to help eliminate odor. Put in a thin layer of baking soda, then add the litter as usual. This works with clay or clumping varieties.


Lemon juice is nature’s bleach and disinfectant.

Apply to clothes, undiluted, to remove fruit-based stains. Let soak 30 minutes and then launder.

Remove rust from clothes by applying undiluted lemon juice and laying the garment in the sun. It disappears like magic.

Bleach spots off Formica® counters by using straight or mixing in a paste with baking soda.

Clean brass and copper with lemon juice and salt. Sprinkle salt on half a lemon and rub metal, then rinse thoroughly. If you don’t have fresh lemons, you can also mix bottled lemon juice and salt.

Make a cleaner in a spray bottle with 2 cups of water, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon of liquid dish soap, 1 tablespoon of baking soda, and 1 teaspoon of borax. Shake before using to clean any hard surface.

Apply lemon juice to chrome and buff to a shine.

As a bleach alternative, use 1/4 cup of lemon juice and 1/4 cup of white vinegar mixed in 1 gallon of warm water, and soak clothes for 15 minutes prior to washing.

Remove stains from hands with lemon juice.

Bleach wooden breadboards by applying lemon juice and letting them sit overnight. Wash and rinse in the morning.


Check the unit price before shelling out for that large, economy size. Often that thrifty size isn’t so thrifty at all!

Club soda is the best emergency spotter there is. Keep club soda on hand to clean up spills on carpet and clothing. Remember to react as soon as possible to a spill. If you act fast, a spot shouldn’t become a stain. Club soda will remove red wine, coffee, tea, pop (yes, even red pop!), Kool-Aid®, and any other spills you can think of. Lift any solids carefully off carpet or clothes and then pour on the club soda, blotting with an old rag until all the color from the spill is removed. Don’t be afraid to really wet the carpet, it won’t hurt it — carpet goes through countless dippings in water as it is made. Blot carpet easily by folding a rag and standing on it, turning the rag as it absorbs moisture and discoloration from the spill. The carbonation in the club soda brings the offending spill to the surface so that you can blot it up, and the salts in it will help prevent staining.

If you spill something on your clothes in a restaurant, ask for a little club soda or seltzer and use your napkin to blot the stain until it is removed. At home you can pour the club soda directly onto the spot, flushing it out.

I have found that club soda will work on many old stains, too. Always keep several bottles on hand.


Now’s your chance to harness the power of twenty mules for general cleaning and laundry. Borax is a natural additive that will boost the cleaning power of your regular laundry detergent and deodorize your laundry, too. But don’t stop there. It is amazing for all kinds of cleaning. Look for 20 Mule Team® Borax in the laundry additive section at grocery and discount stores.

Borax and water is a great cleaner for porcelain bathroom fixtures. Make a paste, and rub well, then rinse.

Combine 2 parts baking soda, 1 part borax, and 1 part hot water to make a fantastic grout cleaner. Mix together and, using a brush, rub into the grout. Rinse well when you are done.

Remove hard-water rings from toilets by shutting the water off at the tank and flushing the toilet to remove as much water as possible. Spray the toilet bowl with heated white vinegar and then sprinkle on borax. Use a piece of fine drywall sandpaper to remove the ring. Turn the water back on and flush for a sparkling toilet bowl.

To clean white appliances, combine 8 cups of water, 1/2 cup of chlorine bleach, 1/2 cup of baking soda, and 2 tablespoons of borax. Wash white appliances thoroughly (using care around carpets and fabrics), rinse well, and dry.

To keep dishwashers odor free, use a damp sponge and some borax to wipe out the inside of the dishwasher, door, and gaskets. No need to rinse, just do the next load of dishes.

To make your own dishwasher spot stopper, combine the following ingredients in a container with a lid: 1 cup of borax and 1?2 cup of baking soda. To use: Add 1 teaspoon of the mixture to the dishwasher along with your regular dishwasher detergent.

Make your own nonabrasive scouring powder by combining 4 parts baking soda and 1 part borax. Store in a labeled shaker container.

To clean vinyl floors, mop with a mixture of 1 gallon of warm water and 1 tablespoon of borax. This will maintain the shine on floors, even those that are waxed.

To remove odor from training pants and socks, soak in a solution of 2 tablespoons of borax and 1 gallon of hot water for one hour prior to laundering. Then dump the entire contents of the bucket into the washer and add detergent; wash as usual.

To revive table linens, add 1/2 cup of borax to your laundry along with your detergent. It will boost your detergent to remove those mystery stains and that stale odor from storage.

To easily clean cloth hats and baseball caps, put them on the top rack of the dishwasher. To avoid color fading, fill the detergent cup with borax and allow to wash up to the dry cycle. Remove the hats prior to the dry cycle and set on a pitcher or jar to dry, shaping as needed.

Make your own Queen’s Power Paste by lathering Fels-Naptha® Laundry Bar Soap onto stained laundry, fabric patio cushions, etc. Then work borax into the lather, rubbing between your thumbs. Removes most difficult stains.

Previously the owner of a cleaning and disaster-restoration business in Michigan, dealing with the aftermath of fires and floods, Linda Cobb, author of Talking Dirty With the Queen of Clean (Copyright © 1998 by Linda Cobb), started sharing her cleaning tips in a local newspaper column. After moving to Phoenix she became a weekly guest on Good Morning Arizona — then the product endorsements and requests for appearances started rolling in. A featured guest on radio and television shows across the country, Linda Cobb lives in Phoenix with her husband.



Antiaging Products Demystified: 4 Rules to Remember Before You Start Shopping

There are thousands of antiaging products filling our heads with promises, from pricey prestige brands to drugstore options that are more reasonably priced. How can you choose between them, and which ingredients actually might work? Dr. Ellen Marmur, author of Simple Skin Beauty, demystifies the cosmeceutical mystery with these four rules.

Some products state that they prevent and reverse the signs of aging. Others claim to firm, smooth, and lift the skin, and there are plenty that guarantee they stimulate collagen and diminish wrinkles. Anti-aging products do fill our heads with promises. (I completely expect to wake up looking like Gwyneth Paltrow after using one.) There are thousands to pick from, from pricey prestige brands to drugstore options that are more reasonably priced. How can you choose between them, and which ingredients actually might work?

Most of us feel baffled and frustrated, with way too many choices. (Remember my overwhelming shopping trip?) According to the American Academy of Dermatology in Schaumburg, Illinois, 94 percent of women are confused by their anti-aging options. So let’s demystify the cosmeceutical mystery. There are four rules to remember:

1. Prevent aging skin with what you already own: sunscreen.

Sun protection is the best anti-aging product you have and the best investment you can make. Ninety percent of cosmetic skin problems that occur with age (wrinkles, sagging, hyperpigmentation) are caused by sun exposure, according to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Therefore sunscreen is the best honest-to-goodness miracle cream on the market. There is no point in buying a bunch of anti-aging products to repair damage if you don’t prevent it in the first place by wearing sunscreen every day. Most cosmeceutical ingredients try to mimic substances found in the body, such as antioxidants, peptides, growth factors, coenzymes, copper, and vitamins. So protecting what we already have naturally and maintaining optimal skin health with daily sun protection and moisturizer is worth a thousand anti-aging beauty solutions. In fact, I have a collection of sunscreens and I use them all differently — an oil-free, broad-spectrum SPF 15 for daily use; an SPF 30 when I know I’ll be outside more of the day; a body lotion with added sunscreen; and an even stronger broad-spectrum sunscreen spray for the beach. Because your skin type changes and the amount of sun exposure you receive does too, your sun protection needs to be compatible. Owning several formulations of sunscreen also reduces the excuses not to wear it, and sunscreens are a better investment than a bunch of cosmeceuticals. Think about it this way: every time you put on sunscreen, you’re preventing the signs of aging and therefore saving money on expensive products or cosmetic procedures to fix fine lines or sun spots.

2. Read product labels closely.

The label must list ingredients from the highest concentration to the lowest, so if the anti-aging element you’re looking for, be it niacinamide or vitamin C, is near the bottom, there’s not enough in the product to do anything. (Keep in mind; a high concentration of the chemical is one way to get it into the skin). Most often, a cosmeceutical acts primarily as a good moisturizer, which is wonderful, but it won’t have much more than superficial and temporary results. Most of the ingredients on the label — the water, moisturizers, binders, and preservatives that make up the vehicle — are inactive. Often an anti-aging product includes silicone to provide a smooth texture to the product and make the complexion look smoother too. It may also contain a little glycolic acid or lactic acid to exfoliate the skin and provide instant gratification. These elements don’t actually change anything below the surface of your skin. At least make sure that the antioxidant or peptide you’re buying is very near the top of the ingredients list. De- coding the label has limitations, however. Most of the time a product does not state the concentration or percentage of the ingredients (and it doesn’t have to). And too high a concentration of some ingredients, such as vitamin C, can be toxic to the skin. You also can’t tell from the label whether an ingredient, like an antioxidant, is stable or not.

3. Choose your anti-aging ingredients wisely.
Okay, let’s shift gears. Let’s pretend that all these cosmeceuticals work.

With so many new ingredients promising to fix so many problems, how should you decide among them? Do you need an antioxidant or a peptide? And what is a growth factor, anyway? Is a prescription retinoid safe, or should you try an over-the-counter version first? Step back, look at your skin, and consider what products you already own. A moisturizer? A sunscreen? A chemical exfoliant or a scrub? (Check to see if your moisturizer already contains an antioxidant or one of the ingredients I’ll discuss soon. You may have been using an anti-aging product for some time without even knowing it.) Ask yourself what you are trying to achieve with a cosmeceutical. Are you in your twenties and looking for a preventive product? An antioxidant is a good bet. Do you want to fight wrinkles? Then something with retinoic acid will work. If brown spots and uneven skin tone are your problem, you can use retinoic acid or try a product with niacinamide. Narrow down what it is about your complexion you want to improve, and that will help narrow down your options.

Tending to your complexion is like caring for a garden, which needs a certain amount of water, nutrients, soil, and sunshine to grow and be healthy. If you overfeed or overwater it, the garden is destroyed. In the same way, putting too much of a good thing on your skin is not necessarily better or more effective. I’ve had patients come in with red, irritated skin and show me twenty different products that they use on it. How do all these ingredients react with one another? Are they overlapping the same kinds of chemicals, such as acids, over and over again? Try to pick one or two active ingredients — an antioxidant and a retinoid, for instance — and stick with them for at least three months (a fair amount of time to see if you get results). Switching from one ingredient to another within a span of a couple of weeks — a niacinamide product, then a kojic acid, then an azeleic acid to get rid of brown spots, for example — cancreate a cocktail of chemicals on your face that can be extremely irritating.

4. Research products, and learn the difference between miracles and marketing.
Do your homework on ingredients, and think logically about their claims. Frequently what is proclaimed to be a new chemical innovation turns out to be a derivative of something that already exists. For instance, an exciting ingredient (whose name was created and patented by a cosmetic company) claims to stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and increase the storage of moisture in the dermis. This chemical has a cool, sci-fi name and sounds like an amazing discovery, yet it’s simply a plant-derived form of xylose (a sugar molecule like the GAGs). Again, the manufacturer’s tests are proprietary, and most products containing the ingredient also include hyaluronic acid, a superior humectant. So it’s hard to say which one is responsible for any water retention results in the skin. A little sleuthing online can tell you what a hot new ingredient actually is and if the clinical studies behind it are for real.

Most of these ingredients aren’t really under the jurisdiction of a dermatologist. Traditional medical training has nothing to do with a popular antioxidant like CoffeeBerry, or an ingredient like rare, Japanese seaweed. As a doctor, I must form a medically educated opinion about whether these things provide substantial results or not. I read the claims and the literature available, put them through my dermatologic understanding of the body, and judge if it’s a reasonable hypothesis or not. So far three things have been proven to work as anti-agers: sunscreen, moisturizer (to maintain the health of the skin’s barrier), and retinoic acid.


Ellen Marmur, MD, author of Simple Skin Beauty (Copyright © 2009 by Dr. Ellen Marmur), is the Chief of Dermatologic and Cosmetic Surgery at The Mount Sinai Medical center in New York City and specializes in skin cancer surgery, cosmetic surgery, and women’s health dermatology. She lives in Manhattan with her family.



End Closet Clutter and Get Organized in 3 Steps

Tangled hangers, over-crowded racks, dark corners, and jumbles of shoes, purses and ties? Put an end to the chaos hiding behind closed closet doors and get organized. Linda Cobb, author of The Queen of Clean Conquers Clutter, shows you what to keep, what to toss, and how to find a place for everything in your wardrobe in three steps.

Unpack: To do the job right, you have to take everything out of the closet. If you have some rolling racks, put them to use now. If not, you can utilize the shower rod (provided it’s attached firmly to the wall), the bed, and floor. Group the clothes by whom they belong to and into categories — blouses in one pile, skirts in another, slacks in still another. You get the idea.

  • Remove everything from shelves and floor, sorting as you go. Make piles of keepers, “not sure,” and “get rid of.” In the keeper piles, try to group types of clothes together, it will save you time later.
  • Clothes that need laundering or dry cleaning should go in a dirty-clothes hamper or dry-cleaning basket.
  • Take the time to wash down closet walls thoroughly and vacuum the carpet or wash the floor (that way your favorite silk blouse won’t get tangled in a cobweb!).

Evaluate: Sort clothes, putting “toss” or “donate” items into appropriate containers, such as boxes or trash bags. It’s a good idea to use black trash bags so that you or the family can’t see your “treasures” departing. Place the clothes you are keeping on the bed or a rolling portable rack.

As you are evaluating each item, consider:

  • Does it fit?
  • Be tough. If you haven’t worn it in a year, you probably won’t ever wear it again. If you haven’t been a size 6 since high school, move on and eliminate the size 6s.
  • Do I need to alter this? How much will the alterations cost?
  • How about repairs — can the item be repaired and still be wearable?
  • Will shoe polish really take care of that huge scuff mark on the toe of my shoe?
  • Give yourself permission to have a pile of “not sure” things. These are things you just can’t quite make up your mind about. If, after further consideration, you are still not sure, box them up, label the box with its contents, and date it. In six months if you haven’t revisited any of the items, donate the contents or dispose of it.
  • Really consider each item. Where will you wear it? When? If you can’t come up with a good answer, say good-bye!


  • Get rid of extra wire hangers. Give them back to your dry cleaner if he will take them; otherwise donate them to a nursing home or toss them.
  • Anything mismatched will not likely be missed — throw out mismatched items.
  • Look through your “not sure” pile one last time and make any additional judgment calls — be strong!

By now you should have boxes and bags for donating, garage sale, and trash. Remove these from the room, so that you have space to work . . . and no matter now tempting it is, don’t look in these containers again. If they are full, tape them up and label them with where they go and get the trash bags into the trash . . . quickly! It’s like pulling off a Band-Aid®, it hurts less if you just “do it”!

If things cannot be fixed, altered, or repaired and be really wearable, then they should be tossed. If the items are salvageable, then keep them, but take care of the problem before putting the item back in the closet.

Neaten Up

  • Determine hanger type — wire, clip, or plastic. Be consistent. A jumble of wire, plastic, and wood hangers will become tangled and be harder to separate and use — plus it just plain looks better!
  • Start re-hanging clothes, grouping by color and type.
  • If using a double-hung system, hang trousers and skirts on the lower rack.
  • Group blouses and shirts by color, and hang them over appropriate pants or skirts (this is called instant dressing!)
  • Hang long clothes in areas where they won’t tangle with things on the bottom of the closet floor.
  • Hang or fold and store sweaters. Sweaters actually do better when folded because they don’t stretch. If you prefer to hang sweaters, be sure to use padded hangers to avoid those shoulder dimples. And button them to keep their shape.
  • Arrange men’s ties on a tie rack or hang over a hanger. (Take a tip from a salesman friend of mine who has a vast collection of ties: after he wears one, he slips it off his neck without untying, and drapes it over a hanger in the closet. His wife has assembled a half dozen “tie hangers” by color in the closet this way.)
  • Replace purses on shelves in your storage area, grouping matching purses and shoes together.
  • Use a clear plastic shoe box to capture miscellaneous items such as hair-bands, scarves, and belts, and place on the shelf.
  • Cover seldom-worn clothes with a cloth cover, or group them together and cover with fabric, such as an old sheet or tablecloth, to keep them clean.
  • Be sure you have enough light in the closet. Consider a battery-operated light, or one that “taps” on and off as needed. This helps you to avoid leaving the house in one navy and one black shoe!

A Sentimental Journey
Now you’re probably staring at a group of what I call the “sentimental keepers.” These are things you don’t wear or use, but can’t bear to part with — so don’t. Make sure they are clean (stains can oxidize over time), and pack them in a box labeled something like “sentimental favorites.” Store them away, under the bed, on a top shelf, or in the attic (as long as the temperature there remains fairly consistent). You still have the items, but they’re not taking up valuable space in your closet. Who knows, one day when you’re baby-sitting the grandkids and run out of ideas, you may grab it for a “dress up” box. Most kids love to play this game.

No More Closet Confusion
Let’s talk about storage options in your closet.

  • First, consider adding extra shelving. This will give you lots of extra space for those things that you don’t use often, but still need to have on hand, like handbags and totes, evening shoes, sweaters, and bathing suits.
  • If you store things that tend to tip over or fall off the shelf, such as purses or stacks of sweatshirts, put them in a see-through type container such as a plastic milk crate. You want to easily see from the floor what you are looking for. If you used a closed container, have it labeled in bold print.
  • I keep a set of “grab-its” in my closet. These are super-long tongs-like things on a long wooden handle that you can use to reach high above your head. Look for these in home and health stores, and catalogs. They are meant for people who lack mobility, but they’re a wonderful tool to keep handy, not only in your closet, but in the kitchen, garage, and even the living room.
  • Look your closet over and determine how many long items you have, such as dresses and long skirts, trousers that are hung from the cuff, bathrobes, and long coats. This will help you determine how much of your closet space to allocate to their storage. If you don’t wear a lot of long things, then you will only need a small area to store them.
  • If you have a lot of blouses, shirts, trousers folded over padded hangers, and other shorter things, consider adding a bar to the closet to instantly double your storage space. You don’t have to run it the entire length of your closet; you can break the closet up into “long” and “short” zones. By adding double racks, you can store your slacks on the bottom and coordinating blouses on the top rack. Double racks should be installed at about 82 and 42 inches high to make the most of your closet space.
  • Separate your clothing by color and you can grab an outfit at a glance when it’s time to get dressed. This method also lets you know what items are in the laundry too. By adding an extra rack, you may have enough space in your closet to store sweaters hanging on padded hangers to keep them wrinkle free (although I still say sweaters are better folded — no stretching).
  • No need to hang T-shirts; roll them in drawers to conserve space and deter wrinkles.
  • Hooks on the back of the closet door are fine for robes and pajamas.


Previously the owner of a cleaning and disaster-restoration business in Michigan, dealing with the aftermath of fires and floods, Linda Cobb, author of The Queen of Clean Conquers Clutter (Copyright © 2002 by Linda Cobb), started sharing her cleaning tips in a local newspaper column. After moving to Phoenix she became a weekly guest on Good Morning Arizona — then the product endorsements and requests for appearances started rolling in. A featured guest on radio and television shows across the country, Linda Cobb lives in Phoenix with her husband.



5 Tips To Make Your Next Toast Truly Memorable

Leave them laughing (or gasping in shock) the next time you’re asked to raise a glass at a family function or event. Just follow the five F’s of giving a memorable toast from Jeffrey Ross, author of I Only Roast the Ones I Love.

I am often asked to make a funny speech at family functions. This is much more nerve-racking than performing for strangers. If I offend, I could lose more than a fan. I could lose an inheritance. In fact, it’s been years and my aunt Bess still hasn’t forgiven me for calling her “Aunt-Arctica” after she almost knocked the gravy boat over with her arm fat while reaching for a third helping of mashed potatoes one Thanksgiving.

Still, I feel an obligation to accept invitations to honor my friends on special occasions such as weddings, bachelor parties, and sometimes even funerals. When comic legend Jan Murray passed away, I looked out at the packed chapel and said, “Look at this turnout for Jan . . . nothing but old people and their parents!” If an occasion is tense, sad, or stuffy, a little humor can really lighten the mood.

Friends often call me for advice before making a toast at a party. I usually tell them to have fun, talk slowly, keep it short, and speak from the heart. I also recommend going on right after dessert is served. By then the crowd has a few drinks in ’em and has been fully fed. Nothing is funny when you’re hungry. Below I offer five tips for making toasts. I call them the five F’s …

1. Friendly
Keep it friendly. Always try to shmooze before you slam. Remember, you want your friends to still like you afterward. Example: “Hey, Roger, you’re the best roommate I ever had, but your breath smells like an anchovy’s cunt.” This is a potentially offensive joke, but because it is delivered in the form of a backhanded compliment about being a great roommate, you’re off the hook.

2. Fast
Timing is everything. Comedic opportunities often come and go in a flash, so stay alert. For example, if an old man wanders into the room late and looking lost, it almost doesn’t matter what you say as long as you get it out instantaneously. “What’s the matter, gramps? Lose your golf ball?” Stay in the moment. Insult humor is a reflex.

3. Funny
A joke is either funny or not funny. Don’t try to analyze why. Follow your gut instincts. And remember, if a joke doesn’t offend somebody somewhere, it’s not funny. Right now there’s a kid in Utah whose pet chicken just got hit by a car while crossing the road. Fuck him too.

4. Fuck
After years of on-the-job research, I have concluded that tossing in the word “fuck” gives even the most rudimentary insult or joke some added oomph. Examples: “Nice tie, fuckface!” “Uncle Joe, is that a new suit or did you fuck the drapes?” “Hey, Grandma, go fuck yourself.”

5. Fond Farewell
After you’ve called somebody every name in this book, it’s usually a good idea to shake hands and say something nice at the end. Hugs work, too. On occasion I have also sent flowers and handwritten notes. It is also useful to keep substantial amounts of cash around just in case something goes completely haywire.

I’ll never forget the time Buddy Hackett was making a speech at our friend Barry Katz’s wedding when suddenly a strange hum began emanating from the electric keyboard set up beside him. Buddy was a master speechmaker, but this noise was gradually becoming more and more of a distraction to him. Plus, Buddy battled with performance anxiety in his later years and was only making this toast because the best man had dragged him up there.

Before long, the hum escalated to a buzz and Buddy started getting really peeved. As he reached the end of his toast, instead of lifting his full glass of champagne in the air in honor of the bride and groom, he simply poured the whole thing into the keyboard. With alcohol now seeping through the wiring, the electric piano began emitting a noise akin to what I imagine a dolphin sounds like when it’s getting banged by a great white whale.

Suddenly a curtain opened up behind Buddy and four guys dressed as the Beatles during the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band era came running out with panicked looks on their powdered faces. Their precious vintage keyboard was ruined. Buddy started cursing and the bride, Susanna Brisk, a comedian in her own right who can usually take a hit, looked like she was about to stab Buddy with the cake knife. Her family members, most of whom had flown in from Russia and Australia for the occasion, began murmuring in disgust and confusion.

As Buddy headed for the exit, I intercepted him to see if he was okay. Matter-of-factly he said, “Please tell Barry and Susanna I’m sorry. I gotta go.” A short time later a messenger showed up with two thick envelopes: one for the bride and groom; one for the band.

My point is: No matter how much it fucking costs, a Roastmaster needs fucking silence while he’s fucking speaking. As the Beatles used to sing, “Money can’t buy you love” — but it sure can get you out of a pickle.

Jeffrey Ross, author of I Only Roast the Ones I Love: Busting Balls Without Burning Bridges (Copyright © 2009 by Jeffrey Ross), is feared and revered for his appearances at the celebrity roasts on Comedy Central. He also stars in a stand-up DVD, Jeffrey Ross: No Offense, as well as an award-winning documentary he directed about his time entertaining U.S. troops in Iraq, Patriot Act: A Jeffrey Ross Home Movie. Jeffrey divides his time between New York, Los Angeles, and the road.


Time-Saving Tips for Cooking Beans

Whatever kind of dried bean you are preparing, from relatively quick-cooking types like black beans or navy beans to garbanzos, which can take a few hours to cook, Daisy Martinez, author of Daisy’s Holiday Cooking, has simple tips for evenly cooked beans with a creamy texture and no “bones” (hard white centers).

I know it’s common kitchen wisdom that beans have to be soaked — overnight in cold water or a “quick soak” in hot water for an hour or so — but I never soak them. Well, almost never: Sometimes I will soak garbanzos (chickpeas) to shave half an hour or so off the cooking time and I soak lupini beans  for the same reason as well as to remove some of their bitterness.

When I tell people that I don’t soak beans, they usually respond that beans have to be soaked, or else they take forever to cook and will cook unevenly. It is true that soaked beans will cook a little faster than unsoaked beans, but we’re talking minutes, not hours, and it doesn’t seem worth it to me. As for cooking unevenly, follow these basic instructions and you’ll end up with evenly cooked beans with a creamy texture and no “bones” (hard white centers):

Rinse the beans in a colander under cold running water. While you’re at it, pick over the beans and remove the occasional pebble or funky-looking bean. Pour the beans into a heavy pot large enough to hold them and plenty of water. My favorite bean pot to cook 1 to 2 pounds of beans is a 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven. Pour in enough cold water to cover the beans by 2 inches. Don’t add salt at this point. Add a couple of bay leaves and a ham hock or large smoked turkey wings if you aren’t vegetarian and like a little smoke with your beans, like I do.

Bring the water to a boil, then adjust the heat so there is a happy bubble, not a full boil, and start skimming off the foam that rises to the top. Most beans will take about 2 hours to cook, give or take 15 minutes. During the first hour and a half, check the beans every once in a while to make sure they are covered by at least 1 inch of water. Add more water to keep them covered if necessary. When the beans are almost tender (somewhere around that 1 1/2-hour mark), lower the heat to a simmer. Add at least 2 teaspoons of salt per pound of beans and continue cooking them until they are tender. Don’t add any more liquid, but do keep an eye on the beans so they don’t stick and scorch. The end result should be a pot of creamy-tender (not mushy!) beans and just enough liquid to generously coat them like a thick, silky sauce. Once they’re done, you can leave the beans on the stove (but off the heat) for a couple of hours and reheat them gently when it’s time to serve them.

Daisy Martinez, author of Daisy’s Holiday Cooking: Delicious Latin Recipes for Effortless Entertaining (Copyright © 2010 Daisy Martinez), is also the author of Daisy: Morning, Noon and Night. She is the star of Viva Daisy!, which debuted on the Food Network in January 2009. She launched her career with the PBS series Daisy Cooks! and a cookbook based on the show. She has appeared on the Today show and The Early Show, and has been featured in The Washington Post, Reader’s Digest, and AARP VIVA, among other publications. A dedicated mother of four fantastic children, Daisy and her family reside in Brooklyn, New York.



  • Daisy shows you how to prepare a delicious holiday cocktail

The Cure for Common Cookie Problems

What makes cookies crumble, lack color, go limp, and stick to the pan? Shirley Corriher, author of BakeWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking with Over 200 Magnificent Recipes, diagnoses these common cookie cooking problems and provides the cures so your next batch will come out just right.

“My cookies taste good, but they are pale and unappetizing.” Three ingredients determine color: the amount of a specific type sugar (reducing sugar), the amount of protein, and the acidity.

More Reducing Sugar
Using even a small amount of corn syrup (glucose), which is a reducing sugar, is a major browning enhancer. Adding 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of corn syrup to your cookie dough will dramatically increase browning. That is, as long as the cookies are not strongly acidic. Too much acidity prevents browning.

Less Acidity
Baking powder contains baking soda and enough acid or acids to neutralize the baking soda, therefore baking powder does not influence the color of cookies. Baking soda by itself is alkaline and is a major contributor to browning.

Some cookie recipes that contain acidic ingredients like brown sugar may contain baking soda—not for leavening, but to reduce the acidity and improve browning.

Color At a Glance
What to Do for More Color:
Add 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of light corn syrup.
Why: Reducing sugars enhance browning.

What to Do for More Color: Use unbleached or all-purpose bread flour.
Protein enhances browning.

What to Do for More Color: Use an egg.
Protein enhances browning.

What to Do for More Color: Use baking soda.
Baking soda neutralizes acidity, and enhances the browning.

“My cookies are crisp and perfect the day I make them, but the next day they are soft and limp.” If your recipe calls for brown sugar, molasses, or honey, they all contain some fructose, a sugar that is hygroscopic (absorbs water out of air). Honey contains 42% fructose and baked goods made with honey keep well. They stay soft and don’t dry out easily. Some cookie recipes with part brown sugar stay firm for a day or so, but if you want really crisp cookies stick with plain granulated sugar.

Some recipes say to bake on an ungreased pan to limit spread. This is a bad idea. It doesn’t limit spread, and the cookies can stick as if they were cemented to the pan.

I love the Reynolds Release foil. It is a miracle for cookies. It is aluminum foil with a nonstick coating on one side. (This stuff is great and is pretty widely available.) Just twist a cookie and lift off. I like it even better than parchment, because sometimes cookies can stick to even parchment. You can slide the foil off the cookie sheet and onto the cooling rack. Your pan is free for the next batch.

You can already have the next batch on foil. Cool the hot pan by running cold water over it, dry, and slide the foil with your next batch onto it. No more washing dirty cookie pans.

In the past I used parchment, but it I did not have it I always sprayed the pan with nonstick cooking spray or a nonstick cooking spray with flour such as Baker’s Joy.

Without Release foil or parchment, there is an ideal time to remove cookies from the baking sheet. If you try to remove them immediately after they come out of the oven, they come apart, but if you wait 1 to 2 minutes, they will lift off the pan easily. If you wait longer, they may be “glued” to the pan. You can reheat the cookies for a couple of minutes, then remove them.

You can get cookies that are “glued” to the pan off by reheating for a couple of minutes.

Overcooked cookies can be rock hard. Since cookies require a short baking time, some as short as 6 minutes, and for most 10 to 12 minutes, 1 minute more or less can make a world of difference. Take cookies out of the oven when they just start to brown around the outer edge. Don’t wait for the center to brown.

Other Cookie Problems at a Glance
What to Do: Stir 1 tablespoon (15 ml) water into the flour before you mix it with other ingredients.

Problem: Lighter, shiny separated crust (“meringue”)
What to Do: Stir just enough to incorporate each egg. Keep any beating to a minimum once eggs are added.

Problem: Cookies are pale
What to Do: Add 1 tablespoon (15 ml) light corn syrup. Use baking soda. Use a higher-protein flour like unbleached or all-purpose bread flour.

Problem: Cookies are limp
What to Do: Use granulated sugar only, no honey.

Problem: Cookies stick to pan
What to Do: Use Release foil (foil with a nonstick coating).

Problem: Cookies are overbaked
What to Do: Do not wait for cookies to brown. Remove from the oven when the edges start to brown.

Shirley O. Corriher, author of BakeWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking with Over 200 Magnificent Recipes (Copyright © 2008 by Confident Cooking, Inc.), has a B.A. in chemistry from Vanderbilt University, where she was also a biochemist at the medical school. She has problem-solved for everyone from Julia Child to Procter & Gamble and Pillsbury. She has taught and lectured throughout the world. She has long been a writer– authoring a regular syndicated column in The Los Angeles Times Syndicate’s Great Chefs series as well as technical articles in the Journal of Biological Chemistry. Her first book, Cookwise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Cooking is a bestseller and won a James Beard Award for excellence. Shirley has received many awards, including the Best Cooking Teacher of the Year in Bon Appetit’s “Best of the Best” Annual Food and Entertaining Awards in 2001. She lives in Atlanta with her husband, Arch.




  • Shirley Corriher talks about BakeWise and shares some baking tips