It’s not always easy find a perfect fit in clothing, says celebrity stylist June Ambrose, author of Effortless Style. But you can train your eye to look for certain imperfections you should avoid.
Have you ever noticed that celebrities always seem to fit perfectly into their clothes? Well, it’s not because they all have perfect bodies. (Believe me; I’ve seen a lot of them naked.) The fact is, they actually have the same flaws as the rest of us. They’re just better at hiding them.
There’s nothing worse than people who don’t recognize their flaws and torture themselves by strangling their bodies in smaller garments that don’t necessarily fit, hoping to lose the excess weight in a week. Not only does this result in stress for the wearers, but they also end up with visible stress to their clothes in the form of back fat, rolls that don’t exist, and the dreaded uni-breast.
If your weight has a tendency to fluctuate, you must be conscious of this and dress accordingly. A lot of my clients are aware that, at a certain time each month, they can increase by an entire dress size from one week to the next because of water retention. Therefore, they have clothes that allow for the expansion. And so should you. Buy garments that provide you with room to maneuver, not the motivation to diet.
You should also understand that your body is naturally asymmetrical. One breast is larger, one shoulder is higher, one leg is longer, and while this is subtle in many cases, some people don’t recognize that the disparities are natural and simply assume that they’re ill-shaped or wearing the wrong size. That’s why you have to really get to know your body, learn to love it for what it is, and dress accordingly.
With this in mind, pick the right time of month to shop. You don’t want this to be when you’re feeling fat or frazzled because your estrogen level is out of control. Even the easiest decisions might seem difficult, and the result could be an investment in clothes that you really don’t need and, worse still, that really don’t fit.
It’s good to set goals for yourself so long as they’re not unrealistic — buying a size six dress when you’re a size ten will only result in the garment collecting dust at the back of your closet. Why not go for the size that you normally buy and then let your tailor take care of whatever you lose? It’s usually going to be just a few inches rather than two or more dress sizes, unless you’ve bought a garment that you’re planning on wearing in a year’s time. Otherwise, not only will you have difficulty squeezing into that new acquisition, but if you do manage the feat you’ll only emphasize the fact that you are oversize and draw attention to those extra bulges. So avoid a fashion disaster by camouflaging those areas that you either haven’t finished tweaking or that are still under construction.
Dark, solid colors are ideal for creating silhouette and shape. Black absorbs light and hides imperfections while outlining the shape of the body. Other dark colors will also do. Just stay away from lighter tones and shinier fabrics that will bring attention to your problem areas. And don’t shy away from alterations. A good tailor can work miracles.
HOW TO DISCERN A GOOD OR BAD FIT
Should you rely on the judgment of your friend-cum-fashion-consultant? Or should you take the salesperson’s word for what looks good? These are both viable options — you can always tell that overenthusiastic salesperson or friend, “Look, if I get home and my husband doesn’t like it, or if someone looks at me funny, I’m gonna bring it back.” A simple threat may prompt the truth. The last thing he or she wants is a return.
However, it would still be best if you know what to look for and make your own decisions. With no one to blame but yourself, you’re more likely to buy what’s right. Just train your eye to look for certain imperfections, such as the following problem-causers.
- SIDE SPILLS
Anything that’s pinching you in, cutting off your circulation, or causing extra ripples is just not worth it.
- A SAGGY OR OVERTIGHT CROTCH
Extra fabric that sags around the crotch is just not ladylike, whereas bunched-up fabric stretched across the crotch will overemphasize that you’re a girl. It’s also unattractive to see the seat of your pants sucked between the cheeks of your butt.
- BUTT-CRACK CLEAVAGE
This may be fashionable among some young girls, but there’s nothing flattering about seeing someone’s butt hanging out of their jeans. Also, denim starts to give after a while, the jeans get a little baggy, and the butt-crack cleavage becomes deeper as time goes along. That having been said, when trying on jeans you should ask the salesperson how much they will stretch, as well as how much they will shrink after the first wash.
- SQUEEZING OF THE HIPS
If your skirt is bunching up in the crotch region, it does not fit. Ditto the stretchy off-the-shoulder dress that is pulling in all the wrong areas, including across the bust. This is not a good look.
- GRIPPING UNDERNEATH THE ARMPIT
If you’re trying on, say, a scoop-neck top, make sure it doesn’t look like it’s choking the armpit and causing a gather. That’s a sure sign that the top does not fit you because your shoulders are too broad for it.
- THE TOP-HEAVY LOOK
If a boxy, short-waisted jacket makes your shoulders look twice as wide, don’t leave the store with it, even if it makes your waist look really small. You’ll look like a linebacker.
- BRA SPILLAGE
Look for back cleavage bursting out of a bra and your breasts pouring over the sides or out the top. These are the signs of a bad fit. Visit a lingerie store and have a saleswoman determine your correct size.
- BACK FAT
Strapless gowns and dresses with spaghetti straps may pinch in the back and cause flesh to hang over the top. If you see this happening when you try on dresses, focus on low-cut fronts and high backs.
- PANTY LINES
There’s nothing worse than visible panty lines. They are a surefire way to destroy a chic look. Unless you’re into fancy thongs, go for a covered bottom that doesn’t hit you in the mid-cheeks. It should either be cut high on the waist, leaving very few lines and seams, or you should opt for French lace boy-style shorts where the lace is flat and doesn’t leave an imprint. The indentation can also be caused by underwear that’s too tight, or a thick band serving as finishing on the edges. At the same time, saggy bloomers aren’t sexy either, because you can see them under fabrics or peeking out the tops of your pants and skirts. A seamless brief is perfect underneath an A-line skirt, while a low-rise brief plays well with a low-rise pair of jeans.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
June Ambrose, author of Effortless Style (Text copyright © 2006 by June Ambrose), is a celebrity fashion stylist/designer who has appeared on national shows including The Oprah Winfrey Show, The View, Live with Regis and Kelly, and Extreme Makeover, and on VH1 and MTV. She owns the full-service styling firm The Modé Squad, Inc., in New York City.
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